Star chef Heiko Nieder at Restaurant Ikarus

March 2010 at Restaurant Ikarus: Heiko Nieder

Big in business – slim in appearance

"The Restaurant, The Dolder Grand", Zurich, Switzerland

Heiko Nieder not only cuts a fine figure in his cooking apron, but also in the kitchen under his command, specifically that of The Restaurant at the Dolder Grand. In fact, the 37-year-old native of Reinbek (a region near Hamburg, Germany) never intended to become a cook. The reason for this was a small but significant misunderstanding, which nearly had a detrimental outcome for the German culinary world. As a child, young Heiko believed that the occupation of being a chef was invariably associated with an above-average waist-to-hip ratio. Thankfully, he grew out of this misconception to set out on a career as a chef, which ultimately propelled him into the league of today’s most celebrated culinary masters.

Heiko Nieder received his training as a chef at the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten in Hamburg. His next stations were at the Le Canard, also in Hamburg, and the restaurant Zur Traube in Grevenbroich (Germany). There, he worked under the direction of culinary celebrities J. Viehauser and Kaufmann. In 1997, he entered into a marriage – in a strictly business sense – with the kitchen of the Vau in Berlin and its “young gun” master, Kolja Kleeberg. This union lasted nearly half a decade. After their paths separated, nothing stood in the way of a new relationship. Nieder’s new “bride” was the restaurant l’orquivit in Bonn. But also, this relationship, too, was not destined for eternity. The outcome was based, on the one hand, on Managing Director Thomas Schmid of the Dolder Grand, and on the other hand, on Nieder’s young, unique and experimental culinary style. The latter proved to be the decisive element in the argument that convinced the Managing Director to bring a “Northern light” to The Restaurant of the Dolder Grand in Zurich. Four months later, in April 2008, the big day had finally arrived: the first meals left the Nieder kitchen.

Heiko Nieder’s creations are characterised by simplicity rather than frills. His secret lies in the wide range of flavours that do not follow typical taste patterns. In addition, his dishes are characterised by their textural sensitivity. The result is a veritable symphony for the palate: Nieder combines aspic of crustaceans with shrimps, fennel and coffee oil, rock crabs with coconut, and turbot with endives, oysters and blue cheese.

The fact that such excellent results indeed have their consequences is also quite evident in the Gault Millau restaurant guide, which honoured the German chef as the discovery of the year 2003. Almost concurrently, the Guide Michelin also expressed its admiration for his skills by awarding him a Michelin star.

In the winter of 2008/09, the master chef set out to achieve another high point in his career by taking on a new job: cooking for the First and Business Class passengers of the international airline SWISS. For his efforts, Heiko Nieder was honoured with an early “safely landed applause” just after dinner was served.

A year ago, renowned FAZ restaurant critic Jürgen Dollase commented on Nieder’s move to Switzerland: “Losing the highly-talented Heiko Nieder is an unfortunate event for the German culinary scene”. Today, those who don’t want to live without Bouchot mussels with arugula, banana and ham as an amuse-bouche have no option but to take a trip to Zurich. If, because of the heavenly taste, you may be afraid (and not entirely without reason) that you could put on a pound or two, just take a look at the boss. After more than 15 years as a chef, Heiko Nieder’s waist-to-hip ratio is still within that optimal range.