Top chef Emmanuel Renaut as Guest chef in the Ikarus

June 2011 at Restaurant Ikarus: Emmanuel Renaut

The Heights of Delight

The ski village of Megève in the French Alps could have come straight from a picture postcard. In this winter version of Saint Tropez, the demands of the holidaymakers are as sophisticated as the village is idyllic. “You have to offer the people something special in Megève,” says the two-star chef Emmanuel Renaut. This is something he does to “par excellence” at his restaurant Flocons de Sel (salt flakes) – with cuisine that is full of imaginative, colourful and timeless products and a delicious blend of flavours.

Before being able to transport his guests to the heights of delight, Emmanuel Renaut needed to acquire the necessary tools. During his training in Paris, the “capital of taste”, the Picardie-born chef learned the secrets and tricks of gourmet cuisine. In 1989, his first step after completing his apprenticeship led him to the legendary restaurant Les Ambassadeurs in the even more legendary Hôtel de Crillon in Paris, where he was employed as premier commis and demi chef de partie. Subsequently, he spent seven years with Marc Veyrat at the Auberge de l’Eridan, interrupted only by a brief guest appearance in Cordes with Yves Thuriès, the “master of sweets”. After a stay in London at Claridge’s, he finally followed his heart and moved back to France to the village of Megève in the French Alps.

Here, a 19th century farmhouse was to become the young chef’s new creative playground. In December 1998, together with his wife Kristine, he opened his restaurant Flocons de Sel in the historic premises and immediately set about making the gourmet world sit up and take notice. After word of his abilities transcended the Mont Blanc massif, in 2001 at the age of just 33 years, he received his first Michelin star. Five years later a second star followed.

In 2010, Emmanuel moved his restaurant to a chalet that occupies a perfect mountainside position, in which, with his wife, he also opened a small hotel. Would the gourmets support the move? They did! And what’s more, without complaint. Gourmets from all over the world are only too pleased to pay a visit to this restaurant, which now has a place at the worldwide summit of culinary experiences. After all, who would willingly give up the chance of enjoying Emmanuel Renaut’s cuisine? A cuisine that has not only mastered working with flavours but which also succeeds perfectly in putting the “terroir” – the geographical characteristics of the region – onto the plate.
In search of the best products, Emmanuel meets with his suppliers, for example fishermen from Lugrin or the neighbouring beef farmers, he visits cheese makers in Beaufortin and meets master bakers, beekeepers and vintners from Valais. He does all this to achieve the perfect result – little works of art such as mille feuille with hay and chestnut cream, and dried beef. Or Topinambur with artichoke consommé, cloves and truffles. Nevertheless, his love of experimentation has its limits. “Molecular cuisine uses many questionable ingredients. I prefer to keep my distance from using such powders and mixtures. Even if they sometimes taste good, eaten often they are not good for one’s health.”

A selection of his recipes can, incidentally, be found in his cookery book, “Mountain and the Chef”. In addition to 52 seasonal dishes, the reader is given a fascinating glimpse into the world of Emmanuel Renaut.

Gourmets are probably seldom as close to the stars as they are in Megève, the tiny village in the French Alps. On the one hand because there cannot be many restaurants of this class to be found at a higher altitude; and on the other hand because of the class of Emmanuel himself, who works magic on his guests with his excellent, authentic cuisine.