Eckart Witzigmann's culinary Notes
Chartreuse of pigeon in Madeira aspic
Preparation of the Madeira aspic:
Run beef shank through meat grinder. Cut vegetables into small cubes. Add vegetable cubes, spices, egg whites, salt and a few ice cubes to the ground meat.
Place mixture in a pot and cool for about 1 hour.
Put pot on the stove and add white wine, Madeira and the cold, degreased beef stock. Stir thoroughly and then add the calf’s foot (blanched and rinsed).
Heat very slowly until nearly boiling, then simmer for approx. 1 ½ hours. Pour through a strainer and stir in the soaked and thoroughly squeezed gelatine.
Note: The ingredients yield more aspic than is needed for the 4 Chartreuses.
Preparation:
Season pigeon and sear in oil on all sides. Place in roasting pan and cook in preheated oven (220 degrees Celsius) until pink (15 to 20 minutes).
Remove from oven and let cool slightly. Separate breast and leg meat and set aside one breast for garnishing.
Braise pigeon bones in clarified butter, then add pigeon jus. Reduce by one half and gradually add the reduced alcohol, the spices and the truffle jus.
Simmer for twenty minutes over low heat. Pour into strainer and let drain. The consistency of the stock should be that of a slightly thickened sauce.
Place raw goose liver into the hot stock and poach gently until cooked. The temperature of the liquid may not exceed 60 degrees Celsius.
Run the meat of the pigeon legs and one breast through the meat grinder and place into blender. Add stock and blend to a fine purée, then pass through a fine strainer.
Add the gelatine (soaked in cold water and thoroughly squeezed), pour mousse into a bowl and leave to chill.
Wait until mousse has slightly thickened, then season to taste and gently fold in the whipped cream (not too stiff) and set in a cool place to chill.
Peel celery and carrots, cut into 3 cm slices with a food slicer and then cut into even-sized sticks.
Clean and trim green beans to the required length. Blanch all vegetables in lightly salted water, shock in ice water and then drain.
Draw vegetables through the Madeira aspic before placing them into the Chartreuse moulds.
Completion:
Line the sides of four moulds (10 cm in diameter and 3 cm high) with the vegetable sticks. Arrange one brioche slice at the bottom of each mould. On top of each brioche slice, place a slice of goose liver parfait and sprinkle with a thin layer of sliced truffles.
Spread with a layer of mousse and let thicken slightly. Cut the remaining pigeon breast into slices and decoratively arrange on top of the mousse. Cover with Madeira aspic.
Chill in the refrigerator and then carefully remove from moulds.
Suggestion for presentation:
Cut Chartreuse in half with a sharp knife (dipped into hot water) and place both halves onto a chilled place. Elegantly drizzle the truffle vinaigrette over the plate and garnish with the salad bouquets.
If desired, add a few cubes of the Madeira aspic.
Yours in culinary friendship,
Eckart Witzigmann
Further Information
Ingredients Journal
for 4 people
Ingredients for the Chartreuse:
- 1 pigeon, oven-ready, approx. 450 g
- Salt, freshly ground pepper
- Vegetable oil for searing
- Clarified butter
- 10 cl pigeon jus
- 1 cl cognac, 1 cl port and 1 cl Madeira, reduced by half
- 2 juniper berries
- 1 sprig of thyme
- ½ bay leaf
- 1 cl truffle stock and/or jus
- 30 g raw goose liver
- 1 sheet of gelatine
- 150 g whipped cream
- 4 slices of brioche, approx. 8 cm in diameter
- 4 slices of goose liver parfait
- 30 g sliced truffles
For the Madeira aspic:
- 300 g beef shank
- 1 carrot
- ¼ celery bulb
- 1 stalk of leek
- 2 onions
- Parsley sprigs
- Thyme
- ½ bay leaf
- 2 egg whites, salt, pepper
- 0.1 l white wine
- 0.5 l Madeira
- 0.8 l strong beef stock
- 1 small calf’s foot
- 4 sheets of gelatine
For the vegetables
- 1 small celery bulb
- 2 small carrots
- 100 g Kenya green beans
- Salt
For the Périgord vinaigrette:
- 1 cl Xérès vinegar
- 1 cl balsamic vinegar
- 2 cl grape seed oil
- 2 cl olive oil
- 1 cl nut oil, salt, pepper
- 10 g black truffles, finely sliced
- 2 tbs pine nuts, lightly roasted
- 4 small salad bouquets of tender leaf lettuces
- Chervil
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