Roland Trettl meets Sergio Herman

Trettl meets Sergio Herman

The star chef from Holland is worth a second look, as are his dishes, which reveal him to be a master of inspired surprises.

Anyone who knows me knows how I hate calling our trade an art. What we do is a craft, not art, but I was forced to think again when I stood in the kitchen of Sergio Herman's "Oud Sluis" in Sluis, Holland, near the Belgian border, and tried his dishes. Of course I'm sticking by what I said – it's not an art, but other terms did cross my mind, such as "magical", "magic" and "magician".

Sergio's main menu is called "Father and Son", conceived as an homage to his father, whom Sergio still considers to be an unsurpassed cook. You would never expect this respectful gesture from the super-cool guy with the rock-star looks, long hair, casual jeans and trainers. The 40 year-old Dutchman, who lives in Belgium, is obviously someone who's worth a second look, because you always get something different to what you expect, starting with the Father and Son menu. At first glance it looks like it comprises 6 courses, but when you eat it, it proves to be much more comprehensive. Sergio the magician always has something else up his sleeve.

Up his sleeve is key here – his langoustine carpaccio is also surprising. It starts with a shellfish jelly in the bottom of a deep plate, on top of which Sergio places a North Sea crab salad. He then camouflages all this with langoustine carpaccio, onto which he pipes lemon-verbena cream. Even the fact that it is topped with a spoonful of caviar can't conceal the depth of this dish. Getting something you didn't expect also applies to Sergio's really great "pure white" dessert, which combines an all-white cream-cheese mousse, rice pudding, a meringue sprinkled with powdered yoghurt, coconut ice-cream, an olive oil and coconut emulsion, coconut chips, and a white praline. The praline is just big to stab it with a fork to eat, whereupon a surprising yellow mango puree splurts across the plate. That's the end of "pure white", then, and the master magician smiles modestly.

Sergio likes to have his little joke. He hates wasting time at his computer, for example. What's better than becoming a slave to the computer, then? How about turning it into food? That's the only way to think of his "ifoie" – a foie gras mousse, napped with a poisonous green apple creme chibouste, all in the shape of computer giant Apple's iMac logo. Yes, it's a joke, but it works. Now, if he has to use a computer, it makes him feel good – and gives us a great dish. In Sergio Herman Hangar-7 is guaranteed a star appearance and guests can be sure that when the magical chef pulls a rabbit out of his hat, it's going to be delicious.

Recorded by Christoph Schulte • Photos: Rutger Pauw/Red Bull Hangar-7, Helge Kirchberger/Red Bull Hangar-7

Oud Sluis

Beestenmarkt 2
4524 EA Sluis 
Nederlands

Tel.: +31 (0) / 117-461269
Fax: +31 (0) / 117-463005 
E-Mail: contact@oudsluis.nl

www.oudsluis.nl

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