In August 2007 at "Ikarus":
Gary Danko
"Gary Danko"
San Francisco, USA
The American Way
There's no secret formula for what makes a world-famous celebrity chef. But should there ever be, then it would look something like Gary Danko’s inexorable rise to stardom as one of the top chefs in the US.
Danko learned all about good, simple cooking when he was still living at home. His mother is from Louisiana, and it was from her that he learned the basics of Cajun cooking, which has a hint of the Mediterranean and which sets great store in the use of local ingredients and comparatively simple preparation. Danko received his professional training at the “CIA” - the “Culinary Institute of America”, of course - in New York. Which is where he discovered the bible of American gourmet cooking – “The Making of a Cook”, written by Madeleine Kamman, the great lady of the US gourmet scene, mentor and master to countless top US chefs.
Madeleine Kamman got to know Danko in 1983 at her cookery school in New Hampshire; from there, he followed her to the Napa Valley, where Kamman founded her “School for American Chefs” at the Beringer winery. Sonoma County's Chateau Souverain was where Danko took up his first position as a chef, and in 1995 he was ranked as one of America's ten best new chefs by Food & Wine Magazine. Further accolades followed: as head chef at the Ritz Carlton in San Francisco, he was voted “Best Chef – California” by the James Beard Foundation, in 2000 he was voted “Chef of the Year” by San Francisco Magazine, and his own restaurant, the Gary Danko, was crowned “Best New Restaurant” by the James Beard Foundation in the same year. For the 2007 edition, the Gary Danko - incidentally one of the few Relais & Châteaux restaurants in the USA – has been voted San Francisco's most popular restaurant for the fifth time running by the testers of the Zagat Survey.
Danko's cuisine is considered the epitome of fine American cuisine – which is no wonder, with a career like that behind him. Although it's not that easy to define its character: a combination of French technique, Mediterranean accentuation of the individual flavours of the local ingredients and an increasing Asian influence. A few of the classic Danko dishes include roast Maine lobster with chanterelles, corn and tarragon, horseradish crusted salmon medallion with dilled cucumbers or seared foie gras with caramelized red onions and port glazed figs. Gary Danko takes particular pride in on the freshness of his ingredients. Things that aren’t in season simply don’t end up on the plate. Danko was one of the first top US chefs to build up a network of local suppliers. And not content to stop there: Danko recently bought his own farm which produces fresh vegetables and herbs. Where he just might be about to set yet another fine example.
Gary Danko
Roland Trettl @ Gary Danko
Trettl in San Francisco
The nice prima donna from Fisherman’s Wharf
It wasn’t easy to lure Gary Danko to Salzburg. One of the USA’s best cooks is at Hangar-7 in August. Not a showman but one who loves perfect aroma.
by Christoph Schulte / essen & trinken
Fotos: Red Bull Photo Files/Rich Brenner
What a prima donna! He wanted to cancel the guest appearance, just because we dared to ask for a different photograph. The old picture was great, but it just wasn’t suitable because of the resolution. But even that was too much for him. We managed to avoid a huge discussion by the skin of our teeth …
I landed in San Francisco already burdened by this experience. I would even have been skeptical without Gary Danko’s attack. After all, the top-chef born in the hicksville Massena in upstate New York, has the challenge of dealing with the most difficult month at Hangar-7. August is Festival time in Salzburg. This means: Permanent stress.
There I am, bang on time at the Gary Danko Restaurant close to Fisherman’s Wharf. And guess who’s not around, the prima donna. Danko lets himself be excused and the next day too. But that doesn’t bother me at all. Gary‘s team is cool. For example pâtissière Melinda, who introduces me to Gary-Danko-Desserts: Yoghurt and passionsfruit Cream with Granité of Nettle Juice. The Strawberry Ice Cream in the Caramelized Feuille de Brick is absolutely sensational, or the White Chocolate Mousse and Granité of Green Tea. Gary Danko’s cuisine is easy to understand and realize.
I’m beginning to feel at ease. The people in the kitchen are great and really on the ball. Both sous chefs Matt and Tom are truly professional. Gary’s partner-in-life Greg, is also great. I just had to like him, because he too is a victim of fashion, but he’s also got full command of the service team and really knows his every guest. The easy-going San Francisco atmosphere was all around us.
And then the prima donna made an appearance, with a pleasant smile, helpful and considerate. Gary Danko is a great guy, who takes time to have real conversations, far removed from all the small talk. He knows a lot, his office being covered wall to wall with bookshelves and thousands of cookery books.
The second thing I eat, are Lukewarm Oysters with Caviar and Pearls of Courgettes. At the first bite my tongue is tickled with the thought: This cuisine hits you with its powerful flavors. Here’s another example: Salmon and Squid Ceviche. This is something that can soon taste quite boring. Not with Gary Danko. The marinated diced fish has an amazingly intense flavor. When Gary adds a little coriander oil to the palm heart salad it is added with such precision that coriander flavor is distinct but not overpowering.
The guy Gary Danko immediately reminds me of his cuisine: “What you see is what you get!” Gary’s plates are not laden with abstruse ideas but with clear statements instead: You get what you see. When Danko garnishes duck’s breast with a spot of cherry compote, then the compote is not just a decorative garnish but knocks you out with its full flavor. Each puree, each confit, each pesto is taken to the limits of perfection. One never has the feeling that this needs to be a bit hotter, or a taint more tart or could do with a sprinkling more salt. It is not easy to express how difficult it is to reach this seemingly unspectacular form of perfection. The same goes for Gary’s sauces: not the classic jus, but strongly reduced, clear fonds. Each sauce very distinct.
The “Gary Danko” is jammed so full that one gets quite worried about the guest at the next table when flambéing. One can’t imagine the gourmet scene without the restaurant. You don’t even have to give the taxi driver the address. “Gary Danko” is all the information he needs to put his foot on the gas.
Several things went through my mind on the plane back home. Firstly, that I could be quite relaxed about the Salzburg Festival: Gary could cope with it all and that a cuisine need not necessarily be too grand and still be able to impress. And also, that prima donnas are not just perfect, but can be incredibly nice too.
Chef de cuisine Roland Trettl met Gary Danko in San Francisco and could not forebear a trip by cable car. Danko’s stint as chef at the Hangar-7 restaurant at Salzburg Airport could after all be happily discussed in the trolley. Trettl has an exlusive monthly column in eat&drink in which he reports his discoveries during his search for the world’s top chefs. Danko is a real find: He deftly juggles with the finest ingredients allowing the true flavors to unfold.
Seared Ahi Tuna with Avocado, Nori, Enoki and Lemon Soy Dressing is one of Gary Danko’s creationsn.
Only the purest ingredients reach your palate, there is nothing hidden, nor are the aromas distorted.
Gary Danko loves a chat over the open flame of the gas cooker. He has prepared oysters, which he serves with caviar and courgettes for his meeting with Roland Trettl.
Video
Gary Danko's
Guest Chef Menu at Hangar-7
Menu 1
Seared Ahi Tuna with avocado,
Nori Enoki and Lemon Soy Dressing
***
Glazed oysters with “Osietra” caviar,
zucchini pearls and lettuce cream
***
Roasted fillet of bison with porcini mushrooms,
onion and herbal „Spätzle”
***
Chocolate Fudge cream with coffee crumb,
milk-ice-cream and nougat
Menu 2
Seared duck liver with caramelized red onions and peach
***
Roasted lobster with tomato puree,
corn and basil
***
Striped sea bass with fennel
and saffron sauce
***
Roasted saddle of lamb coated in herbs
with mixed leafy vegetable and fregola
***
Rum roasted bananas with brown sugar crumble
and cream cheese mousse
Menu 3
Cebiche of Salmon and Squid with palm hearts,
pickled red onion and coriander oil
***
Seared sea scallops with spring onion puree, Shimeji mushrooms,
Chorizo and Edamame beans
***
Seared yellow fin tuna
with red and yellow bell pepper and Bagna Cauda
***
Pancetta wrapped frog legs
with Sunchoke garlic purée, potato and lentils
***
Duck breast coated in lemon and herbs with duck hash and cherries
***
Oven roasted strawberry-basil ice-cream
with white chocolate mousse and green tea granite
Restaurant Gary Danko
Restaurant Gary Danko
800 North Point at Hyde Street
San Francisco
Tel.: 001 415 749-2060
Fax: 001 415 775-1805
www.garydanko.com
information@garydanko.com
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