Marc Fosh

 In April 2007 at "Ikarus":
 
Marc Fosh
"Read's Restaurant"
Santa Maria, Mallorca

COOK IT LIKE FOSH

Marc Fosh

Outside the culinary world, Real Madrid's David Beckham is considered the most precious commodity that England has exported to Spain. With all due respect to Beckham's skills, however, Marc Fosh – head chef of Read's Restaurant in Mallorca - is the clear number one in the gourmet world. Fosh runs the restaurant of the finest and most elegant finca hotel in the Balearic Islands (Spanish daily newspaper Diario del Mundo ranks the Read Hotel among Spain's top ten) and has built up a significant fan base among guests and professional critics alike. The restaurant was awarded its first Michelin star in 2003 and was rated "Europe's best hotel restaurant" by the Conde Nast Johansens hotel guide in 2006.
 
Marc Fosh (born 1963) learnt his art in England, firstly in London's Greenhouse Restaurant and then in the Chelsea Room of the Carlton Tower Hotel. After a few more years of apprenticeship in France and Spain, lastly in San Sebastian, he was given the opportunity to run the kitchen of the newly opened
of the ReadHotel. Fosh was not exactly overjoyed by the idea of working on the island that is such a popular tourist destination. He initially gave himself six months - and will shortly be seeing in his twelfth year in Mallorca.
 
Top chefs are not exactly few and far between in Spain. So how did Marc Fosh establish his cuisine at the head of such a high-class field? By developing his own style! "Before Read's I never stayed anywhere very long, so I never really had a maestro to influence me in any significant way," explains the Englishman. "I think that helped me a lot to develop my own style." Cod filet with verbena milk, crab couscous and an emulsion of yellow pepper; scallops with beetroot powder and green asparagus; goat's milk panna cotta with a sorbet of bitter orange, carrot and chilled jasmine tea consommé - Fosh's cuisine is unmistakably Mediterranean, but with a creative influence from French and Asian tradition. Fosh loves to cook with sauces made from vegetable juices, lightly emulsified meat juices, and delicate meat stocks and essences enriched with herbs. Dishes, he says, should be light, with fresh flavours and seasonal products that allow the ingredients to speak for themselves. "I want my guests to leave the table refreshed, stimulated and satisfied," he says. Butter, cream and cholesterol have little place on the menu.

Marc Fosh

Lechner, Witzigmann, Fosh, Trettl


Interview

Marc Fosh

What is your cooking philosophy?
 
I always define our philosophy very simply as fresh, clean and direct. Fresh, as in fresh ingredients but also fresh in flavours. Clean because those flavours have to be very pure, we don’t want to change the flavours too much and I also like our food to be very direct! Another key word for me is healthy.
 
Could you tell us about combining Flor de Sal and chocolate?
 
Yes, it is a strange combination, salt and chocolate, but originally I wanted to make a desert, using this typical classical truffle. We made it lighter by taking away the butter from the chocolate and adding olive oil, and then we combined the chocolate and the olive oil with raspberries and red peppers. We tried it a couple of times but we still needed that little kick. So we added the salt and it just gave it that lift, that special edge that was needed in the dish.
 
Could you please explain the concept of Haute-Cuisine for Take-Away?
 
Well, I think the idea is to create a concept where you can take away freshly made, healthy food, which is light and also easy to reheat in your own kitchen, without losing taste.
 
Have you published a cookery book yet?
 
We’re just starting a recipe collection which we are constantly adding to and it will be released in August.
 
What is chlorophyll of vegetables?
 
Chlorophyll is basically the natural pureness of the plant. It’s a way of extracting all the impurities. What you have after that is the natural, pure flavour.
 
Can you talk a bit about your background?
 
Sure… I started cooking about 15 or 20 years ago in London and I was lucky that I started in a good restaurant. I think for a chef the first six months to a year are very, very important to have a good grounding and to learn the basics. So I spent eight years in London and had a very good grounding in the kitchens of big hotels and it was a very good experience but like with anything, after a while I wanted to do something different and decided to move to Spain.
 
Could you give us a glimpse into the wicked character called Roland Trettl?
 
No, not in front of a camera (smiles). Roland is very experienced and fun to be around with. I knew Roland when he first came to Mallorca and we got together a few times, I went to his restaurant a few times at Ca’s Puers and I enjoyed his food and he came to Read’s as well a few times. So, we formed a very common bond a long time ago and it’s good to see him doing well and doing something so interesting here.
 
What’s Read’s Hotel actually like?
 
Read’s Hotel is a very luxurious hotel but it’s also like a quirky and unusual English country house. Now we’re building on the spa, so it’s changing a little bit. That’s the good thing about it – it’s constantly changing.
 
Have you ever used Red Bull as part of a recipe?
 
Actually it was a strange thing. There was a guy who used to work in our kitchen and every afternoon after he went to the gym, he’d come in with a can of Red Bull and I had never really tried it. So one day I said “Give me a taste of that!” and I thought it was a really interesting aroma and that it would be fun to try and do something with it. So we tried a series of different recipes, sorbets and so on with Red Bull. We tried it with pineapple and it wasn’t very good, then we tried it with peaches and it was fairly good. In the end we settled for a recipe with light cheese. I had a chocolate-coffee desert and it worked very well with the light cheese and the Red Bull, the coffee just adding the needed bitterness. It was quite an amazing taste.
You’ve got to try it!

Video



MARC FOSH'S GUEST
CHEF MENU AT IKARUS

lambback in safrancrust


 Menu 1
 
Salt cod with aloe vera and a warm peas-lemongrass soup
***
Lightly smoked pigeon with foie gras and a cereals vinaigrette
***
Scallops with beetroot powder and a light porcini sauce
***
Sea bass with shellfish caramel, grapefruit jelly, potato-caviar
***
Loin of lamb „pre-sale“ in a saffron crust with chlorophyll of red pepper
and cardamom milk
 ***
„Menestra“ of fresh fruits (cooked and uncooked)
with a natural yogurt sherbet and a chilled lemongrass infusion
 
***
Lasagne of pineapple and ginger with coconut ice cream
 
 
Menu 2
 
Salad of smoked eel, new potatoes, truffles and artichokes
with a broad bean vinaigrette and passion fruit oil
 ***
Chilled young almond soup with ravioli of marinated prawns
and smoked egg plants
***
Wild turbot with mediterranean quinoa, black olive powder
and green tomato essence
 ***
Roasted duck with eucalyptus and pineapple
 ***
„Menestra“ of fresh fruits (cooked and uncooked) with a natural yogurt sherbet
and a chilled lemongrass infusion
 ***
Chocolate - olive truffle with flor de sal and a red pepper-raspberry jelly
 
 
Menu 3
 
Foie gras with green apple and polen
***
Langostinos, wild mushroom oil and rosemary milk sauce
***
John Dory with an anchovy parmentier and light parsley and liquorice sauce
***
„Menestra“ of fresh fruits (cooked and uncooked) with a
natural yogurt sherbet and a chilled lemongrass infusion
***
Vanilla-panna cotta with rhubarb sherbet and an infusion
of fresh strawberries and bergamot tea
 

 

 

TRETTL @ FOSH

Roland Trettl and Marc Fosh


"Cooking is like Football"

He wouldn’t have quite made it to the top in football, but as a chef her certainly plays in the upper league. Englishman Marc Fosh fascinates his many fans on Majorca with a cuisine that deliberately does without the falderal and trimmings.

Recorded by Christoph Schulte

The man gives the impression that he’s more likely to kick down the door first and then look for bell. Typical bulldog. Powerful, stout and with a head as round and smooth as a billiard ball. I can vividly imagine him chanting full throat and hoarse “You never walk alone”, in the south stand of his favourite club, Westham. But, in fact, things turn out to be rather different than you might expect: There I was sitting in the car with Marc Fosh, in the middle of a congested Palma in search of a parking space. He drives past the first 20 free ones, because he might be caught partially parking on the pavement. No breaching the laws, no discussions – Marc has a preference for respectable harmonious behaviour.
I have known star cook Marc Fosh personally for about ten years – from the time when I, myself lived and cooked on Majorca. When I recently visited him prior to his guest appearance at the Hangar-7, we greeted like friends who had only just seen each other the day before.
Marc has been head chef at Read’s Restaurant, which belongs to a small and intimate Relais & Chateaux-Hotel for eleven years. The Hotel has 23 rooms each individually decorated and furnished. I find it certainly gives the whole thing incredible style when you know: Each room is different. It’s rather similar in the 60-seat-restaurant. An 18 metre high, almost cathedral- like room with seemingly baroque murals and frescos. It’s a matter of taste whether you appreciate Bacchus delightfully smiling at you down from the ceiling.
In contrast to this overwhelming opulent decor is Marc’s cuisine, which he himself describes as “naked”. For him this means: “fresh, clean, direct and healthy”. The products are even more important to him than they are to top chefs anyway. They are rarely served with sauces and if so they only consist of absolutely reduced fonds and vegetable juices. Never with butter, never with cream. Instead sea salt and Majorcan olive oil, which Marc puts on a par with the finest of fruit juices. It’s obvious then, that his desert “Chocolate-olive oil-truffles with Flor de Sal and Red paprika-raspberry gelatine” was immediately put on our menu at Hangar-7 as a Fosh statement, so to speak.
Marc wanted to become a football player. He was good, but not good enough. The result: He shocked his father– in becoming a cook instead of taking a degree– with a career that started right at the bottom. He had to clear away the dishes first. Then he worked as a dishwasher. But, he was nevertheless, in that kitchen. There Marc soon noticed: Cooking is like playing soccer – you can only be as good as your team.
He trained at London’s first class hotel-restaurants. If one talks to him about this time and asks him about idols and master cooks that left a distinctive mark on him, then one notices that Marc does rather envy me for “my” Witzigmann. That is, to have someone who stands by you, to whom one owes gratitude for many things, and with whom one can talk about everything.


After the stopovers at the Greenhouse, at the Capitol, and at the Savoy it became clear to Marc Fosh: I’ve got to get out of here and see the big wide world. But he put up with the south of France for no more than a month precisely before the Province drove him up the wall. The Spanish San Sebastián was more to his taste– He stayed there for four years and cooked everywhere from Arzak to the Tapas-Bar. Then came Mister Read with his idea and Marc instantly fell in love with Majorca where he has belonged to the to the top garde for eleven years and where he enthrals his guests with Bacalao perfectly braised in milk, for example. This accompanied by aloe vera and a warm pea lemon grass soup. Everything typically Fosh and that is where our styles meet:  in concentrating on a maximum of three main ingredients instead of the sumptuous and wild mix of components. My personal Fosh-hit: A salad made of lightly smoked saffron eel with a little potato and broad beans garnished with diced balsamic gelatine. Fantastic.
Marc is an unusual mixture of workaholic and family man. He got to know his Spanish wife Maika in San Sebastián. Together they have three kids – five, nine and eleven years old. Each so sweet, that I actually began to like kids from now. Hard to believe that we could manage to lure him to Salzburg. But as Mr. Fosh puts it so nicely: The Hangar-7 is worldwide the chefs’, “Hall of Fame”. –“ You’ve just got to be a part of it.” Thanks, Marc.

READ'S HOTEL,
RESTAURANT & SPA

Hotel Reads Park

Relais & Châteaux
Santa Maria del Camí
07320 Mallorca

Tel: + 34 971 14 02 61/62/63
Fax: + 34 971 14 0762

readshotel@readshotel.com

www.readshotel.com

Copyright © Red Bull Hangar-7 GmbH

30.07.2010

www.hangar-7.com